Each estimate we prepare will carefully detail what we are bidding and how much it will cost. Our goal is to provide all critical details so that there are no uncertainties. The process typically includes several major activities; nevertheless, the exact method varies between projects. Here are the typical significant steps:

Removal: If an existing slab exists, we will break it up, cut out rebar and wire mesh, and haul the old product away for disposal. All organic materials (sticks, paper, etc.) must be removed at this stage. Rocks and nails are fine.

Form Setters: At this stage, a crew will move into setup forms to hold the concrete in place while it dries (or cures). A 6″ x 6″ welded wire mesh will be placed during the concrete pour for reinforcement. If rebar is used, it should overlap the following piece by 2′.

Compaction: Once the area is formed, we will compact the ground to create a solid surface for our concrete project. Once compacted, we typically bring in a road base to compact further and build a more substantial base. Sometimes, we will remove soil to make room for the road base. Please note that pouring concrete on a frozen surface is never a good idea. As the ground thaws, areas will expand and shrink, which can cause the concrete to crack. A winter pour will be successful if the ground is thawed and the concrete is covered after the pour.

Pouring: The key to solid concrete is ensuring that the concrete cures evenly throughout the entire thickness. Problems can arise when conditions are not favorable for the process. If not correctly adjusted for cold, heat, rain, shade, and wind, the following elements can impact. The technician will try to mitigate these risks. For example, the freshly poured concrete will be covered with heat blankets (thermal protection) if the temperature is expected to drop below 40 degrees within the next 48 hours. In addition, the concrete mix will include the right amount of calcium. Accelerators will be added if the cure time needs to be speeded up.

In contrast, retarders will be added to slow the curing process. Ensuring concrete cures are uniform is more art than science; it comes with experience and can’t always be controlled. Finally, concrete should never be poured on frozen ground. Winter pours require that the ground surface be thawed or removed and replaced with a road base.

Concrete with a 2,500 PSI (pounds per square inch) will generally meet most building codes. That said, we always quote, order, and install concrete with a 4,000-psi attribute. The psi will be identified explicitly in the quote. This means the concrete should withstand up to 4,000 pounds in a one-square-inch area without compromising. A large SUV or truck can weigh up to 5,500 pounds, spread over way over a square inch. A more expensive option is to order concrete with fiberglass mesh embedded in the concrete. Many builders recommend using just fiber mesh without wire mesh. We feel that wire mesh should permanently be installed regardless.

The Pour: Lifting the wire mesh is a good idea as the concrete is being poured. When the pour starts, it is a race against time to ensure that the concrete does not set up too fast. Concrete is not self-leveling; hence, the technicians must work the concrete to have the right angles for proper drainage.

Finishers: The finishers will smooth out high and low spots and fill holes. A lot of attention is directed to mending surface imperfections. Finishers will work to get the surface as smooth as possible without overworking the cream. The floats are used to bring the cream to the top. The sides are sometimes vibrated to avoid the honeycomb look on the edges. Before troweling, we will wait for all the “bleed water” to disappear from the slab’s surface. The bleed water will rise to the surface during the curing process and will reabsorb into the slab or evaporate from the surface over time. Finally, one will drag a broom across the surface for a final finish, depending on the desired application and finish.

Stress Lines: Control joints are manually placed during the finishing process when the surface is large enough to warrant them. For commercial floors, we wait 24-48 hours and then cut 1/2 to 1″ deep stress lines with a diamond blade, going deeper at the edges.

After We Leave: Keep the surface moist for at least seven days. Most of the concrete curing will occur over the next 21 days. Otherwise, shading the slab with burlap, straw, or a plastic blanket will help.

Payment: Once a 50% deposit is received, we put the customer on our schedule. The remainder is due upon completion of the job.

Warranty: All material is guaranteed to be as specified in the estimate, and we will attempt to complete the work by industry best practice. We strive to take the appropriate precautions to mitigate cracking and spalling risk and maximize our work’s life. Colorado rapid weather changes, expansive clay soil, salting, mag chloride, misuse of the surface, failure to properly seal on an annual basis, add-ons to existing concrete where we could not correctly compact the surface, delivery delays, factory problems, and an assortment of other things outside of our control can cause concrete to fail or weaken. It is commonly stated that there are two types of concrete: “concrete that has cracked and concrete that will crack.” Our goal is to do things that mitigate and delay that risk. Properly installed and cared-for, concrete has the potential to look beautiful for a long time, which is why we believe concrete is a good choice. Click here to learn more about our warranty.

Adjacent Landscape: We will do our best to protect the adjacent landscape; however, please understand that forming sometimes requires disturbing the adjoining landscape. We will do our best to put things back in place. That being said, we are not landscapers, and you may be required to hire a professional at your own expense to get things perfect (i.e., flagstone, sod, bricks, etc.). When pouring in the backyard, we will typically utilize a line pump to avoid wheelbarrow traffic that is hard on the lawn and potentially the home if misguided. Nonetheless, the construction activity can still stress existing lawns. Please water well after we leave to return the lawn to its former glory. The grass is highly resilient. We will do our best to minimize its disruption. If the owner decides that the grass needs to be replaced, that must be completed at the owner’s expense. Pouring concrete also requires us to remove roots from the pour area. The removal of roots can negatively impact trees and bushes. We do not take responsibility for the potential impact on adjacent trees and shrubs due to the root removal. This is a risk that the owner must accept.

Survey: It is the owner’s responsibility to survey and mark property lines and setbacks regarding the project placement. Counties and cities have property setbacks, meaning structures must be a certain distance from property lines. If unknown or unsure, it is the property owner’s responsibility to get a survey completed to ensure setbacks are protected. We will rely on you to place retaining walls and other structures relative to property lines and setbacks.

Structural Engineering: We are not structural engineers. If you are engaging us to build a retaining wall or something structural, you are responsible for hiring a structural engineer to design the structure. The structural engineer will create a design based on soil samples, use, and placement and will design the rebar structure in the wall and wall thickness and height. We will build the retaining wall or whatever structure is in the plans in accordance with the specifications provided.

Personal and Real Property: Concrete is called “mud” because it’s messy. Our crew will hustle during the pour/finish process to help ensure the concrete does not get ahead of us. During this process, there is the risk that the concrete will splatter on the home, deck posts, fences, adjacent concrete, or whatever is in the vicinity. This may result in the need for touch-up painting. The spatter (if applicable) might not wash off the next day. The restoration of adjacent items will be the homeowner’s responsibility. Alternatively, the homeowner can self-install plastic to protect their property or move items away from the pour. The downside of plastic is that there is a risk that it could fall. If the plastic were to fall, there is a risk that it could damage the concrete finish. The homeowner accepts this risk if they protect their home with plastic. They remove the plastic after the pour, which is the homeowner’s responsibility. We will focus on forming and finishing the concrete to the best of our ability.

Free Estimates: We provide estimates throughout Denver and the surrounding area, including Boulder and Castle Rock. After our onsite visit, we will e-mail your estimate for your consideration.

Type of Work: Our company installs driveways, stamped concrete, steps, curbs, and gutters.

Insurance: Best Denver Concrete carries a full book of insurance that includes general liability insurance, workers’ compensation insurance, and commercial auto insurance. Proof of insurance is available upon request. We can also add any additional insured language at no extra cost.

Business License: Our business license number is 17BS-FIRCO-223 and is dated 3/6/17.